Finnish research shows Europe could rebuild its textile value chain through large-scale recycling.
The Telavalue project by Finland’s VTT concludes that textile waste recycling could restore major parts of textile production to Europe, driven by mechanical and chemical recycling solutions and strong regulatory support.
A Finnish research initiative known as Telavalue has determined that textile waste recycling represents a billion-dollar opportunity, with the potential to bring significant portions of the textile value chain back to Europe.
Each year, Europe discards an estimated 10 billion kilograms (11 million U.S. tons) of textile waste. Given that textile fibers typically cost 2–3 euros per kilogram ($2.36–$3.54), the economic potential is substantial, says Ali Harlin, Research Professor at the VTT Technical Research Centre of Finland.
Harlin emphasizes that this moment presents a major chance for European nations to collaborate in building a unified continental recycling ecosystem. However, he notes that meaningful progress depends on regulatory frameworks—such as the Waste Framework Directive—being firmly implemented before textile recycling rates increase significantly.
According to Harlin, Europe could support five to ten chemical recycling plants, but each chemical facility would require feedstock from around ten mechanical fiber recycling plants to operate efficiently.
VTT Principal Scientist Pirjo Heikkilä stresses that mechanical recycling should always be the first route, preserving chemical recycling for pure polyester, heavily worn items, or lower-quality materials. Beyond reincorporation into textiles, Harlin adds that recycled fibers can enhance materials like concrete and asphalt.
Mixed-fiber and low-grade textiles pose profitability challenges, but VTT Senior Scientist Eetta Saarimäki explains that thermomechanical recycling offers a solution by converting such materials into plastics and composites.
Within the Telavalue project, researchers evaluated recycling methods by examining material value, processing costs, and environmental impact, providing a comprehensive foundation for Europe’s next steps in textile circularity.